Trashed and Burned

I traveled out to Lough Bray after work on Thursday, it was a lovely evening a little bit of wind and quiet warm. It took exactly an hour from gaff to boulders although I half ran half walked in. I tried going up the military rd via Fosterbrook and Rathfarnham rd, then came back via Enniskerry and the n11. It took the same amount of time but the traffic wasn't as heavy, so not really a fair test. I thought I'd burst a tyre when I cracked a pot whole in the road,I slowed down a bit after that!



Warmed up on the grand hotel boulder, did Aerosmith cleanly for a change and prob 14 without the sketchy top out. Did Diarmuid's little arete as well but it was the start of a skin losing pattern.

Then I mooched over to Rainbow but had forgotten my sequence,so I just tried to sort the top section first. In the end I used Dec's method with the quick intermediate and low heel hook. Then it turned out I had forgotten the start, I finally got it wired but had nothing left in the tank! It was nice to get out I'm glad I went maybe a little disappointed I didn't get Rainbow but Ill go again on the next nice evening.



On Wednesday I spent the morning getting the car through it's NCT, well pleased it passed first time and with very little expense! A god send after last time. So with a clean and legal car I took off to Glendalough and met Kev. It was quiet warm but there was an OK breeze at the boulders.

As it was dry I warmed up on The Plum and original route both sides was pleased to get them all first go I normally fall of the right arete the first few times. Then headed into the track side area did the usual warm up circuit which I also added slugger to. Then it was time for the show,



Headed over to Pascals, I was worried after I'd had such a good session on it a fortnight ago that it might have just been a fluke. I tried to dial down the top moves but kept doing it slightly different each time, in the end I opted for a heal hook on the intermediate hold under the triangle.

Then I pulled on from the start and surprised myself by catching the crimp first go. My foot popped of going for the break so I had to fight to get it back on, I fell going for the final hold. Gutted, I really didn't want to have to try the start again. I pulled on a few more times but kept pinging off at various points at the start. I went back to trying the top to build my confidence back up. Then I had a good break for about 10 Min's, I was trying not to put pressure on myself but I found I really wanted to get it and had come so close twice. This attempt I pulled on hit the triangle brought my heel up caught the crimp then the break, I had one move left but was wreaked. I caught the top hold and was made up almost blow it when I didn't have much strength left to get over the top. I was well pleased for the time it took me to get down off the boulder.

Its funny its been a while since I have sent something I have really worked towards as I get side tracked very easily. I always expect more jubilation but one of my first thoughts was how can I do that and not Andy's arete. I'm pleased I got it though as I wasn't having the most productive season. I have got stronger but not really progressed. I can now look at it and say "there I improved!"




Still have the thing on the rasher, the egg ss and rainbow but I don't feel as pressured. I have dropped Andy's as it just upsets me.



I don't care If you have all been bored by this as I F%£king climbed Pascals graded 7b in Super Dave's guide and my first 7B.



On Tuesday I gave Yoga a try, I actually enjoyed it. I was definitely more flexible afterwards and was quiet stiff on Wednesday. I'm not sure how much the yoga contributed to the stiffness as I have been running /climbing everyday for 11 days now. I'm going again to see how I get on. The most pleasing point was I didn't fart like I was told I probably would.

Was at UCD in the morning, it was a nice change but I find its more dynamic than the coop and the holds offer a lot less friction. This is possibly due to the heat in the place. In an odd twist I was as close to getting the 7a as 7b. Not sure I agree with the grades but a grade debate for a climbing wall seems a little pointless. I found the change good fun, it got busy as I was leaving at 1 as the students were on lunch.

On Monday I ran up Djouce with Bray, it was a fantastic evening. I wish I had worn gloves as my hands got really cold. I have never been up there before and I really enjoyed the sustained climb up. It's been a while since I have done any fell running and I really enjoyed the deep breathing and pain in my legs. It felt like a stolen trip out, the views were stunning. Bray keeps a good pace for me but if he hadn't been their I would have definitely walked a little to the top!

So a great week all in all I feel pretty broken now but nice broken.

Ann had no part in the spell checking on this post so cant be blamed for any errors!

Lough Dan

A great day out in Lough Dan today, I have never been so I was unsure of what to expect. Mark also said he had never been but this turned out to be a lie and he had indeed been before - lucky really as it turned out the rest of the group are in capable of reading the guide! Its an amazing area, the scenery was great and the fact that there is a longish walk in made it more worthwhile. There was even a wade across a river! The recent snow and rain made this an interesting prospect but it wasn't too bad. Warmed up on what we think was a 6a ripper traverse. Dec and I then did the sit start which was supposed to be 7a. If we were on the right bloc I think it is a lot less than the given grade but good none the less. Then to the recommended Shadow - Dec did it first go, I had a few more attempts but got it in the end. I found the top out rather tasty, thought there should be a thank god hold but there wasn't. I really enjoyed the doc bloc problem - we were unsure if it was the right or left side of the arete so we did both. Looked at a possible line to the left of Shadow, pretty burly - a bit like hugging a fridge!
Finished up on Karma, a lovely problem but I was spent and it took me ages. Again a possible sit start but my fingers hurt when ever I touched anything, ah well there is always next time.

Ann made stew for dinner which was great and she made enough for 2 meals which sucks as it means I didn't get to keep eating it. Back to work tomorrow that was my Easter!

Dear diary

Bad weather this week has really hampered my ability to get out, however I did get to the Scalp with Davo on Wednesday. The rock was dry but I found it very cold and it took ages for my fingers to warm up. Tried Holly tree roof, this felt really doable using the blind slap method although there does seem to be a big crack running along the back but with that it's a lot easier. Did a nice line Dave showed me as well which is very much like problem 21 in the guide to Glendalough.

Tuesday was a torrid day in the coop - I got really frustrated on Barry/Eoin's Problem being unable to get much past the start, where previously I have consistently got further. Suffice to say after an hour I got in a big mood and stopped climbing. It also showed me how banter unfit I was. I must try and remember how to block Bray's voice out out when I'm climbing!

Thursday's wall session was good but still failed on the above problem but did at last manage Chris's traverse, not using Dec's ridiculous campus technique but sneaking in a heel hook. Then pints which makes a nice change. Only down side was everyone else going on about their long weekend while I'm working like a sucker.

Ran around UCD on Wednesday in the sun which was nice, the longer evenings are great. Starting to feel like I'm plateauing across running and climbing at the moment. Find it hard to pick up my pace, I'm by no means tired at the end of the run but I can't get myself to go faster. I just drift off into my own little world. Thinking of changing my runs, I like the idea of a run up to three rock from home. Pretty much uphill all the way, that should shock the crap out of my body! Also trying to think of a short run that I would hit at pace and go all out.

No real shocking out burst for you at the moment, just find everything equally grating!